The Galapagos were simply amazing and quite possibly the closest anyone will ever come to finding paradise on Earth. It is no wonder that the Galapagos fascinated Charles Darwin - the diversity of plant and animal life is simply amazing. Within the week that I was there, I was able to see hundreds of types of fish and birds in addition to penguins, sea lions, flamingos, sharks, rays, whales, sea turtles, and of course, giant tortoises. We were fortunate enough to have a few orca whales glide by our boat while we were sailing from one island to another. When I went to Antarctica, I was fortunate enough to get very close to humpback whales so to then be able to be so close to orcas just a few months later is beyond what I could have imagined possible. The opportunities to snorkel were phenomenal and my favorite spot included the chance to see about 15 sea turtles "sleeping" on the bottom of the water. It was like coming across a turtle slumber party. I do have to say that I never thought I would go snorkeling with sharks around but apparently the Galapagos variety are not particularly interested in humans. A week in the Galapagos was not nearly enough to experience all it had to offer but I feel very lucky to have had the chance to at least experience a fraction of these amazing islands.
Peru is quite a diverse country and I fortunately was able to experience several different landscapes within a few weeks. We began our journey in the Amazon where I quickly realized that it would take months or years to really begin to know how to look for all the different flora and fauna that this eco-system offers. We were fortunate enough to have guides who have spent much of their life in this part of the world learning how to spot all the various plants and animals that are just invisible to those of us setting foot into the jungle for the first time. I was most amazed on our night walk when they could spot miniscule insects (except the tarantulas - those are not so miniscule) quite easily.
After the Amazon, our travels took us to Cuzco and the Peruvian Highlands to begin our encounter with Incan culture and ultimately, Machu Picchu. I was able to hike the Inca Trail to get to Machu Picchu - the trail is approximately a 4 day/3 night experience. At times, I was not so sure that I would make it to the end - because the altitude is much higher than what most of us are used to (it gets up to 4200 meters at some points), breathing becomes a challenge. At times, it literally was a matter of just trying to put one foot in front of the other and seeing how far that could get me before I needed to catch my breath. I succeeded in making it to the end - I fortunately was the only person in my group who did not suffer from altitude sickness or a stomach bug. All of those trekkers made it to the end as well and I really admire the fact that they did. I was physically at full capacity and it was hard enough for me - I can't imagine how I would have done it if I had not felt well. The most amazing part of the trek though are the porters. These are locals who carry everything that is needed for camping on the trail - most are carrying 25 kilograms on their backs and scampering up and down the trail like mountain goats. Of course, most of these men have grown up with the altitude so breathing is not a challenge but it is still a 42 kilometer hike that involves lots of ups and downs but they make it look as easy as mall walking. By the time all the trekkers huff and puff their way into camp, the tents have been set up and there are food and drinks waiting. And the porters clap for you when you arrive to camp - I find this needs to be reversed as it is really the trekkers who need to be applauding the porters for without them, the journey would actually not be possible. We arrived to Machu Picchu in pouring rain but it still could not take away from what an amazing sight it is. I don't think I ever realized how big the sight actually was until I saw it in person. And the mind boggling thing is that the sight was not actually finished when the Incans had to abandon it - just how big would it have grown to had the Incans been able to finish their original vision? Despite the hundreds of tourists in brightly colored rain ponchos, it is still possible to look around you and see the amazing culture that the Incans left behind.
After the Peruvian Highlands, we moved on to Lake Titicaca. We were able to actually do a homestay on one of the many islands in the lake - our hosts were all very hospitable and we joined them in a variety of activities including volleyball (all the women in the village were amazing and competitive players), peeling potatoes and sorting broad beans. Part of the homestay included wearing their traditional clothes which included thick skirts, blouses, and a long knit cap. The cap made it look as though we were stuck in some kind of parallel universe in which Dickens' England met Andean culture. While I'm not ready to sign up to live in Lake Titicaca permanently, it was certainly nice to have a brief glmpse into a world that has largely been untouched by technology and the complications that the modern world can often bring with it. And I have to say that Lake Titicaca is beautiful and quite huge - frankly, I feel as though I have seen smaller oceans. It was great to be able to spend time actually on the lake and then driving around it - it certainly gives you an appreciation for its size.
After Peru, my travels took me to Bolivia - a country that I was fortunate enough to know a little bit about from my time working at Meredith. For several years, we had an exchange with a university in Cochabamba, Bolivia that brought us a professor every autumn. I was able to learn a little about Bolivia from the wonderful people that we had visit us and I always thought it seemed like an interesting place to visit. Bolivia is one of those countries that has not had much experience with tourism up until the last 20 or so years. I have to say that Bolivia has some of the most beautiful natural scenery I have seen over the last year - Salar de Uyuni or the Salt Flats especially are amazing. There really is nothing like it in the world - you feel as though are standing on a glacial field but it is really a plain of salt. In some places, you can see absolutely no humans or land around you. In other areas, there are islands that contain everything from cacti to flamingos to llamas to volcanos. It is a crazy mix and in some ways, you feel as though you must have ended up on another planet. The Salt Flats are also great because due to their remoteness and the fact that it is often hard to find a horizon, you can take a variety of crazy pictures. Thankfully all the tours allow for time to do this so our group spent hours taking pictures in which we did everything from stand on small objects like a Swiss Army Knife to being chased by a toy dinosaur. One of the other wonderful experiences that Bolivia had to offer was the chance to visit the mines in Potosi. Mining is a huge industry in Bolivia - being able to go in and actually see what so many men do day in and day out was very humbling. Most men work 8 to 12 hours a day and often 7 days a week. It is not uncommon for many miners not to live past age 39. There are many physical dangers in the mine and we discovered that most miners do not eat or drink while they are working. They often just chew coco leaves throughout the day to suppress the hunger and wait to eat until they go home. We saw one small boy who lost his father a few years ago in the mines - unfortunately, it is likely that in just a few years, he will start working there himself as children are allowed to start working in the mines at age 12. While mining is an important piece of the Bolivian economy, it is clear that it is a very dangerous occupation and that many Bolivians are claimed by the mines every year.
The Galapagos, Peru, and Bolivia are complex and diverse regions and I am happy to have at least gotten a taste of all of them. There is of course much more to South America than what I have seen and done but I feel as though I at least have had some very representative experiences over the last few weeks. When I have the chance to travel again, South America will certainly be high on my list of places to return to.
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